11/10/2023 0 Comments Evapo rust menards![]() They had large open tanks full of Evaporust in which they could soak car frames, fenders and other large parts. Make sure they are dry, and oil them up.Įvaporust is great but, unfortunately, it has doubled in price in the last five years, at least where I live.Ībout 12 years ago, there was a rust removal business here in MInneapolis that catered to auto restorers. So it is something to be aware of after washing the parts in warm water. But if you clean the parts of the "black dust" coating that remains after pulling them out of the solution, you basically have absolutely bare metal, and you need to protect it somehow, so that rust does not start attacking it again. I suppose this is true if you just pull the part out of the Evaporust and bag the parts up. The ONLY correction I would make to Evaporust's claims is that it leaves a anti-rust protective layer on the parts. I have been using it since shortly after it came out as a product, and the article in "Skinned Knuckles" appeared. ![]() ![]() I have no relation to the company, other than as a very satisfied user. I have NO FINANCIAL INTEREST in Evaporust. It disassembled like it had never been rusty. No stripped bolts, not broken parts, no damaged threads. After washing it in warm water, I let it dry in the sun, and after it was dry, I sprayed it down with Kroil. You can do this in the kitchen, as there is absolutely no chemical effect on anything, and it is not poisonous in any way. The next day, I took it out, washed it in the sink with warm water, and scrubbed the black dust off of it under the tap. I placed the whole lump into a bucket that would fit the nose plate, and filled the bucket with Evaporust so that it just covered the disk under the surface of the Evaporust. The crank would not turn, the valve mechanism was locked, and the ignition timer was locked as well. It is about 12" in diameter, with the crankshaft sticking out the front in the middle of this plate. It also has the drive for the valves and the ignition system mounted on this plate. The single cylinder engine has an aluminum crankcase, and mounted on the front of it is a cast iron face that carries the front crankshaft bearing. There will be absolutely NO RUST ANYWHERE on the part. Wait one day, and when you pull it out and rinse it off, you will be amazed. If you have rusty or frozen assemblies, wash any oil or grease off with acetone or MEK, so the rust is just bare rust,(Any oil or grease will prevent the Evaporust from acting, as it has to touch the rust to eat it up.) and then soak it in a container. They were amazed, and I was too when I tried it. Then they tried it, and that is how the article resulted. They were as skeptical as I was, and dismissed most of it's claims before they used it. I tried it several years ago, after an article on in in "Skinned Knuckles" magazine. You can order it through Walmart, or it is available at Harbor Freight, but HF sells it at a 30% premium over Walmart. But after the first use, I was absolutely sold. It is stated to be completely safe for other materials such as wood and plastics, as the only thing it attacks is rust. Once the rust removal is complete, it has no further effect on the part or parts. It does not matter how long you leave the part in the Evaporust. It uses a chemical process called "Chelation" to remove rust. It does not attack anything except rust, and it removes that chemically, not by eating it away like an acid would. ![]() ![]() No, there is no acid or base to Evapo-Rust. ![]()
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